THE DUKE of York in Cowes on the Isle of Wight is a family-run venue with a convivial atmosphere, and is very much a locals' hang-out.

We were shown to a comfy table and drinks were brought over by the cheerful and attentive staff.

Sticky chicken starter turned out to be hot, tasty chicken nuggets with a very palatable soy, ginger and honey glaze. Our garlic mushrooms were freshly cooked and with real garlic.

The main courses are famously generous here. Ordering homemade luxury crab cakes drew murmurs of approval from our waitress, who confided that these were handmade by the landlady, and very popular.

Isle of Wight County Press: The crab cakes were fabulous.The crab cakes were fabulous. (Image: Matt & Cat)

Containing real Isle of Wight crab, the delicacies were a far cry from the sad potato discs that often masquerade as crab cakes.

Rich brown and white crab was mixed with actual chunks of claw-meat, and maybe a smattering of potato. There were two cakes, served with sweet chilli sauce, a light salad and chips, making a respectably-sized meal.

The 12oz rump steak was a similarly well-proportioned piece of meat. Nobody was in danger of going home hungry here.

Fried mushrooms, grilled tomato and battered onion rings were the classic accompaniments, and a peppercorn sauce was the irresistible extra touch.

Chips and salad came alongside - yes, that same salad we had seen three times before, but no matter.

This steak was perfectly cooked; seared and full of moistness. A pub standard done as it should be.

Isle of Wight County Press: The steak was perfectly done.The steak was perfectly done. (Image: Matt & Cat)

We couldn't resist dessert, and chose homemade bread and butter pudding with custard from the waggishly-titled PUDZ menu.

Like everything else we ate that evening, this was exactly as you would hope. Hot, fresh, homemade and extremely satisfying.

If you enjoy straightforward food done well, you will not be disappointed by the Duke of York. If you are seeking a seven-course tasting menu or artisan bread served on a heated trowel, you'd probably be better off looking elsewhere.

Isle of Wight County Press: Save room for pudding!Save room for pudding! (Image: Matt & Cat)

We know also that the Sunday roast and breakfasts at the Duke of York are very popular, and no wonder with such generous proportions, combined with a friendly local atmosphere and attentive table service.

This cosy and distinctive pub continues to be on our list of recommended venues.

MATT & CAT'S BILL:

Garlic mushrooms £5.95
Sticky chicken £7.95
12oz rump steak £19.95
Peppercorn sauce £2.50
Crab cakes £18.95
Bread & butter pud £5.95

TOTAL: £61.25.

RATING: Four stars. Very good indeed; well worth seeking out.

CONTACT DETAILS: 

ADDRESS: Duke of York, Mill Hill Road, Cowes, Isle of Wight, PO31 7BT.

TEL: 01983 295171

WEB: dukeofyorkcowes.co.uk

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