AMAZINGLY, despite being encrusted with authentic items of ancient nauticalia, the Bargeman's Rest has only existed since the late 1990s.

We've been to many a party, leaving do, and family luncheon there, and without exception the
standard has never varied.

This extensive family pub is a great place to take your extensive family.

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If you get as far as the stuffed spotted shag at the far end of this cavernous hostelry, you'll have reached the performance space which, on the night we visited, was occupied by the rather awesome Fellowship of Groove, performing as part of the Newport Jazz Weekend.

Matt would usually have the chilli burger but, on this occasion, we decided to have fish and chips.

Having previously been overwhelmed by the laden plates of the pub's main meals, we decided to be a bit more moderate and ordered two portions of the deli-size fish and chips.

Our meals arrived astonishingly quickly, and with the sort of fresh enthusiasm you might expect at the beginning of the season, not a busy Saturday night at the tail-end of summer.

The portion of white fish was piping hot; enrobed in satisfyingly crispy batter.

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It would have been easy to bulk the meal out with chips, yet there were just the right proportions between fish, fries and garden peas.

Special mention must go to the side salad; a varied mix of leaves, with local tomato and a pleasing tarragony dressing.

The tartare sauce was great for dunking the chunky chips in, and we pretty much licked our plates clean.

Our smaller mains meant we had wisely left room for pudding.

We shared one of the Bargeman's signature sundaes: midnight mint. The minty ice cream was rich yet refreshing; its chilled After Eights adding a touch of chocolate and fondant cream — and plenty to go round.

The Bargeman's Rest must pump out hundreds of meals a day yet, in our years of experience — we first reviewed the restaurant in 2006 — the quality never varies, which is a testament to its popularity.

The service is efficient and helpful; the food quality is consistent — the kitchen creates classic pub grub, with options for common dietary foibles.

Meals are not only served quickly but, in these belt-tightening days, the food is also good value. Recommended.

For more eating out ideas read some of Matt and Cat's other reviews

Matt and Cat's bill

Fish and chips (deli) £11.50 x 2 £23

Mint sundae £7.95

Total £30.95

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